 | John Scott Russell - 1845 - 124 pages
...the wind increase the waves become cusped, and are regular waves of the second order. They continue enlarging their dimensions, and the depth to which...extensively covered with waves of nearly uniform magnitude. How it is that waves of unequal magnitude should ever be produced may not seem at first sight very... | |
 | British Association for the Advancement of Science - 1845 - 718 pages
...the wind increase the waves become cusped, and are regular waves of the second order. They continue enlarging their dimensions, and the depth to which...extensively covered with waves of nearly uniform magnitude. How it is that waves of unequal magnitude should ever be produced may not seem at first sight very... | |
 | 1871 - 504 pages
...their dimensions ; and the " depth to which they produce the agitation increasing simulta" neously with their magnitude, the surface becomes extensively...centimetres) per second is precisely the velocity he had chosen (as indicated by his observations) for the velocity of propagation of the straight-ridged... | |
 | Sir Horace Lamb - 1895 - 632 pages
...the waves become cusped, and are regular waves of the second order [gravity waves]*. They continue enlarging their dimensions, and the depth to which...extensively covered with waves of nearly uniform magnitude." It will be seen that our theoretical investigations give considerable insight into the incipient stages... | |
 | William Thomson Baron Kelvin - 1910 - 588 pages
...the wind increase the waves become cusped, and are regular waves of the second order. They continue enlarging their dimensions; and the depth to which...centimetres) per second is precisely the velocity he had chosen (as indicated by his observations) for the velocity of propagation of the straight-ridged... | |
 | William Thomson Baron Kelvin - 1910 - 581 pages
...the wind increase the waves become cusped, and are regular waves of the second order. They continue enlarging their dimensions; and the depth to which...centimetres) per second is precisely the velocity he had chosen (as indicated by his observations) for the velocity of propagation of the straight-ridged... | |
 | William Thomson Baron Kelvin - 1910 - 588 pages
...the wind increase the waves become cusped, and are regular waves of the second order. They continue enlarging their dimensions; and the depth to which...centimetres) per second is precisely the velocity he had chosen (as indicated by his observations) for the velocity of propagation of the straight-ridged... | |
 | British Association for the Advancement of Science. Meeting - 1845 - 712 pages
...the wind increase the waves become cusped, and are regular waves of the second order. They continue enlarging their dimensions, and the depth to which...extensively covered with waves of nearly uniform magnitude. How it is that waves of unequal magnitude should ever be produced may not seem at first sight very... | |
 | Lord William Thomson Kelvin - 1904 - 732 pages
...it gives that deep SCOTT RUSSELL'S CAPILLARY WAVES. 597 " blackness to the water which the sailor is accustomed to regard " as an index of the presence...had called "ripples." The velocity of 8^ inches (21 J centimetres) per second is precisely the velocity he had chosen (as indicated by his observations)... | |
 | Sir Joseph Larmor - 1929 - 596 pages
...the wind increase the waves .become cusped, and are regular waves of the second order. They continue enlarging their dimensions; and the depth to which...centimetres) per second is precisely the velocity he had chosen (as indicated by his observations) for the velocity of propagation of the straight-ridged... | |
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... begin with about an inch of amplitude, and a couple of inches long ; they enlarge as the velocity or duration of the wave increases; by and by conterminal waves unite; the ridges increase, and if the wind increase the waves become cusped, and are... 